Cowboy boot: Difference between revisions
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{{Short description|High-heeled leather riding boot}} |
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{{more citations needed|date=August 2018}} |
{{more citations needed|date=August 2018}} |
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[[File:Cowboy_boots_cropped.png|thumb|Cowboy boots custom made for President [[Harry S. Truman]] by [[Tony Lama Boots]]]] |
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[[File:Dunn's mirror image text.jpg|right|thumb|Cowboy boot embellished with decorative mirrored text embroidery]] |
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⚫ | '''Cowboy boots''' are a specific style of [[riding boot]], historically worn by [[cowboy]]s.<ref>Howard Zinn, ''A People's History of the United States'', New York: Harper Collins, 2003.</ref> They have a [[High-heeled footwear#Men and heels|high heel]] that is traditionally made of stacked leather, rounded to pointed toe, high shaft, and, traditionally, no lacing. Cowboy boots are normally made from cowhide [[leather]], which may be decoratively hand-tooled, but are also sometimes made from "exotic" skins like [[alligator]], [[snake]], [[ostrich]], [[lizard]], [[eel]], [[elephant]], [[stingray]], [[elk]], [[American bison|buffalo]], and so on. |
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⚫ | There are two basic styles of cowboy boots, western (or classic), and roper. The classic style is distinguished by a tall boot shaft, going to at least mid-calf, with an angled "cowboy" heel, usually over one inch high. A slightly lower, still angled, "walking" heel is also common. The toe of western boots was originally rounded or squared in shape. Some claim that the narrow pointed-toe design appeared in the early 1940s,<ref>{{Cite book|title=Art of The Cowboy Boot|last=Beard|first=Tyler|publisher=Gibbs Smith|year=1999|isbn=0-87905-919-2|location=Layton, Utah|pages=11}}</ref> although it can be seen as early as 1914 (see photo of [[Lottie Briscoe]] at right). |
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⚫ | '''Cowboy boots''' |
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⚫ | The "roper" style is a newer design with a short boot shaft that stops above the ankle but before the middle of the calf, with a very low and squared-off "roper" heel, shaped to the sole of the boot, usually less than one inch high. Roper boots are usually made with rounded toes, but styles with squared toe correlate with style changes in streetwear. The roper style is also manufactured in a lace-up design which often fits better around the ankle and is less likely to slip off. Still, lacing also creates safety issues for [[equestrianism|riding]]. They usually have some decorative stitching. |
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⚫ | There are two basic styles of cowboy boots, western (or classic), and roper. The classic style is distinguished by a tall boot shaft, going to at least mid-calf, with an angled "cowboy" heel, usually over one inch high. |
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⚫ | |||
== History == |
== History == |
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[[File:Lottie Briscoe 1914.jpg|thumb|[[Lottie Briscoe]] in 1914 wearing cowboy boots]] |
[[File:Lottie Briscoe 1914.jpg|thumb|[[Lottie Briscoe]] in 1914 wearing cowboy boots]] |
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[[Riding boot]]s had been a part of [[equestrianism|equestrian]] life for centuries. |
[[Riding boot]]s had been a part of [[equestrianism|equestrian]] life for centuries. Until the [[industrial age]], boots were individually handmade in many different styles, depending on the culture. Early cowboy boot designs, along with other cowboy accouterments, were also heavily influenced by the [[cowboy|vaquero]] tradition that developed from a tradition that originated in [[Spain]] to the Americas, dating back to the early 16th century. The boots worn by Mexican vaqueros influenced cowboy boots, although the exact origin of the modern cowboy boot as we know it today is unclear. Americans most likely adopted cowboy boots from Northern Mexico, and later came the cowboy boots we know today. Military boots designed for [[cavalry]] riders also had an influence. Mexican vaqueros probably developed cowboy boots from the Spanish riding boots. The Mexican cowboy boots only came in three styles, rounded toe, pointed toe, and tribal toes, while the Americans offer many more styles. Also, the idea of using skins on the boots came from Northern Mexico, as well as the colors, which imitate the color of Mexican ranches.{{citation needed|date=June 2023}} |
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⚫ | During the cattle drive era of 1866–1884, the cowboy was apt to ruin a good pair of dress boots while working, so some owned more decorative dress boots to wear in town. The basic style elements permeated working boots as well. Fashion magazines from 1850 and 1860 show the cowboy boot with top stitching, geometric or other natural elements cutouts, and underslung heel.{{citation needed|date=June 2023}} |
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Later, the [[Industrial Revolution]] allowed some styles of boots to be mass-produced. One mass-produced boot style, the [[Wellington boot]], (a shorter but cavalry-oriented boot) was popular with cowboys in the US until the 1860s. |
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⚫ | The American-style boot was taken up by bootmakers in the cattle ranching areas of [[Texas]], [[Oklahoma]], and [[Kansas]].<ref>Barbara Brackmann, Kansas Historical Society, "How Kansas gave Texas the Boot"</ref> Two of the best-known early bootmakers of the era were [[Charles Hyer]] of [[Hyer Brothers Boots]] in [[Olathe, Kansas]], and [[Herman Joseph Justin|H. J. "Daddy Joe" Justin]] of [[Justin Boots]] in [[Spanish Fort, Texas]] and later [[Nocona, Texas]]. After Justin moved to Fort Worth, where shipping was easier, the Nocona brand of cowboy boots was made by Enid Justin Stelzer, eldest daughter of H. J. Justin, who stayed in Nocona with her husband, and the couple continued the family business.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.library.unt.edu/archives/historical-manuscripts/historical-manuscripts-exhibits/enid-justin-lady-bootmaker/ |title=Enid Justin: Lady Bootmaker |access-date=2009-11-11 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100305090501/http://www.library.unt.edu/archives/historical-manuscripts/historical-manuscripts-exhibits/enid-justin-lady-bootmaker |archive-date=2010-03-05 |url-status=dead }}</ref> After the couple divorced, the Olsen-Stelzer brand was started by Stelzer. The [[Texas Legislature]] designated the cowboy boot as the official "State Footwear of Texas" in 2007.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Hatch |first1=Rosie (Ed.) |title=Texas Almanac 2022-2023 |date=2022 |publisher=Texas State Historical Association |location=Austin, Texas |isbn=9781625110664 |page=21}}</ref> |
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⚫ | During the cattle drive era of 1866–1884, the cowboy was |
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⚫ | T.C. McInerney of Abilene, Kansas, also made the American-style cowboy boot. A picture of this boot is listed in an ad in the Abilene Weekly Chronicle on December 7, 1871.<ref>{{cite news|date=December 7, 1871|work=The Abilene Weekly Chronicle|location=Abilene, Kansas|page=4|url=https://www.newspapers.com/image/384019873|title=Newspapers.com}}</ref> |
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⚫ | The American-style boot was taken up by bootmakers in the cattle ranching areas of [[Texas]], [[Oklahoma]], and [[Kansas]].<ref>Barbara Brackmann, Kansas Historical Society, "How Kansas gave Texas the Boot"</ref> Two of the best |
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⚫ | T.C. McInerney of Abilene, Kansas, also made the American-style cowboy boot. A picture of this boot is listed in an ad in the Abilene Weekly Chronicle on December 7, 1871.<ref>{{cite |
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== Design == |
== Design == |
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{{ |
{{unreferenced section|date=July 2021}} |
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[[File:Cowboyboot heals buckaroo-.jpg|thumb|Comparison of the "cowboy" heel and the lower "walking" heel. Both designs are angled slightly, different from the squared-off "roper" heel]] |
[[File:Cowboyboot heals buckaroo-.jpg|thumb|Comparison of the "cowboy" heel and the lower "walking" heel. Both designs are angled slightly, different from the squared-off "roper" heel]] |
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[[File:Roper Boot.jpg|thumb|A roper-style cowboy boot has a low, squared-off heel]] |
[[File:Roper Boot.jpg|thumb|A roper-style cowboy boot has a low, squared-off heel]] |
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When mounting and, especially, dismounting, the slick, treadless leather sole of the boot allowed easy insertion and removal of the foot into the [[stirrup]] of the [[Western Saddle|Western saddle]]. |
When mounting and, especially, dismounting, the slick, treadless leather sole of the boot allowed easy insertion and removal of the foot into the [[stirrup]] of the [[Western Saddle|Western saddle]]. The original toe was rounded and slightly narrowed at the toe to make it easier to insert. While an extremely pointed toe is a modern stylization appearing in the 1940s, it adds no practical benefit and can be uncomfortable in a working boot. |
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While in the saddle, the tall heel minimized the risk of the foot sliding forward through the stirrup, which could be life-threatening if it happened and the rider |
While in the saddle, the tall heel minimized the risk of the foot sliding forward through the stirrup, which could be life-threatening if it happened and the rider was unseated. There was often a considerable risk that a cowboy would fall from a horse: he often had to ride young, unpredictable horses, and he had to do challenging [[ranch]] work in rugged terrain, which often meant that he could accidentally become unseated by a quick-moving horse. If a rider fell from a horse but had a boot get caught in the stirrup, there arose a significant risk that the [[horse]] could panic and run off, dragging the cowboy, thus causing severe injury and possible death. |
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The tall leather shaft of the boot helped |
The tall leather shaft of the boot helped hold the boot in place without lacing. The tall shaft, comfortably loose fit, and lack of lacing were all additional features that helped prevent a cowboy from being dragged since his body weight could pull his foot out of the boot if he fell off while the boot remained stuck in the stirrup. While mounted, the shaft also protected the lower leg and ankle from rubbing on the stirrup leathers, as well as fending off brush and thorns, particularly if also worn with [[chaps]] or chinks. While dismounted, the shaft helped protect the leg and foot from rocks, brush, thorns, and [[rattlesnake]]s. The high tops helped prevent the boot from filling with mud and water in wet weather or creek crossings. |
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The modern roper style boot with a low heel and shorter shaft emerged from the traditional design in response to the needs of modern [[rodeo]], particularly [[calf roping]], where the cowboy had to run to tie the calf as well as to ride. |
The modern roper style boot with a low heel and shorter shaft emerged from the traditional design in response to the needs of modern [[rodeo]], particularly [[calf roping]], where the cowboy had to run to tie the calf as well as to ride. The lower shaft resulted in a less expensive boot but also allowed the boot to be more easily removed. A lace-up design for roper boots became popular, preventing the boot from falling off too easily and providing more ankle support when on foot. However, the lacer also has safety issues because it will not fall off if a rider is hung up in a stirrup, and lacking a smooth upper, the lacings may make it easier for the boot to become caught in the stirrup in the first place. |
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Decoration varied widely. Early boots were cowhide leather pieced together with single rows of |
Decoration varied widely. Early boots were cowhide leather pieced together with single rows of topstitching. Still, as custom boots were made, cowboys asked for decorative stitching, cutouts in the high tops (early on, often Texas stars), and different materials. The interaction of wild west shows and, later, western movies influenced styles that working cowboys sometimes adopted. Modern cowboy boots are available in all colors. They can be made from almost every animal whose skin can be made into leather, including exotic materials such as alligator and ostrich. |
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Women's boots have become a |
Women's boots have become a significant part of the more recent history of cowboy boots. |
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Toe styles have varied through the years, but the basics remain the same. Popular toe styles include snip, wide snip, square, and round. |
Toe styles have varied through the years, but the basics remain the same. Popular toe styles include snip, wide snip, square, and round. |
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One accessory used with cowboy boots |
One accessory used with cowboy boots is [[spur]]s, which are sometimes attached to the heel of each boot to cue a horse while riding. |
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== Fitting == |
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{{unsourced section|date=July 2021}} |
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[[File:Women's cowboy boots.JPG|thumb|left|Women's boots on a display rack. Many boots for both sexes are highly decorated.]] |
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Many cowboy boot companies have been in operation since the 19th century. Each manufacturer has developed its own [[Property|proprietary]] [[last]]s for producing boots, which are considered [[trade secret]]s and are highly guarded. Because of this, fitting between companies is not always consistent. Each brand will fit a little differently from their competition. When considering wearing a cowboy boot from a different manufacturer, it is recommended to seek assistance from a knowledgeable merchant who specializes in cowboy boots if a person cannot try them on in person. Some wearers will swear by one manufacturer's fit, while others will not perceive any difference between brands. |
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For some individuals, the fit may vary depending on the type of toe that is sought. In a properly fitting boot, regardless of the shape of the toes, the wearer should be able to wiggle their toes, feeling no pressure from the sides, top, or front of the boot. If the individual's foot has a longer than normal arch, or if their foot is more V shaped, then a narrow toe may present a problem. A rounder toe, or a squared off toe, will fit more like a regular shoe. Another factor is the choice of leather. A boot made of a softer leather, such as calfskin, buffalo, or horsehide, will quickly stretch where appropriate and mold to the wearer's foot. That is why it is recommended to select a snug size because the boot will eventually "break in" and a loose fitting boot at the time of purchase will become sloppy. |
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However, some individuals also are unaccustomed to the slight slippage of the heel in a new, non-laced cowboy boot, particularly with a cowboy heel, and buy a too-small boot in an attempt to stop this slippage. But a small amount of slippage is also normal at first. This slippage is caused by the stiffness of a new boot's sole. As the sole breaks in and forms around one's foot, the sole becomes more flexible and the slippage will decrease. |
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Boot hooks are often required to put on a new pair of boots until they soften in the arch and break in. A [[boot jack]] is recommended for removal, though care must be taken not to damage the heel of the boot when using a jack. |
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==See also== |
==See also== |
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[[Category:Rider apparel]] |
[[Category:Rider apparel]] |
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[[Category:History of clothing (Western fashion)]] |
[[Category:History of clothing (Western fashion)]] |
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[[Category:History of fashion]] |
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[[Category:Rodeo clothing]] |
[[Category:Rodeo clothing]] |
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[[Category:Western (genre) staples and terminology|Boot]] |
[[Category:Western (genre) staples and terminology|Boot]] |
Latest revision as of 20:00, 13 September 2024
This article needs additional citations for verification. (August 2018) |
Cowboy boots are a specific style of riding boot, historically worn by cowboys.[1] They have a high heel that is traditionally made of stacked leather, rounded to pointed toe, high shaft, and, traditionally, no lacing. Cowboy boots are normally made from cowhide leather, which may be decoratively hand-tooled, but are also sometimes made from "exotic" skins like alligator, snake, ostrich, lizard, eel, elephant, stingray, elk, buffalo, and so on.
There are two basic styles of cowboy boots, western (or classic), and roper. The classic style is distinguished by a tall boot shaft, going to at least mid-calf, with an angled "cowboy" heel, usually over one inch high. A slightly lower, still angled, "walking" heel is also common. The toe of western boots was originally rounded or squared in shape. Some claim that the narrow pointed-toe design appeared in the early 1940s,[2] although it can be seen as early as 1914 (see photo of Lottie Briscoe at right).
The "roper" style is a newer design with a short boot shaft that stops above the ankle but before the middle of the calf, with a very low and squared-off "roper" heel, shaped to the sole of the boot, usually less than one inch high. Roper boots are usually made with rounded toes, but styles with squared toe correlate with style changes in streetwear. The roper style is also manufactured in a lace-up design which often fits better around the ankle and is less likely to slip off. Still, lacing also creates safety issues for riding. They usually have some decorative stitching.
History
[edit]Riding boots had been a part of equestrian life for centuries. Until the industrial age, boots were individually handmade in many different styles, depending on the culture. Early cowboy boot designs, along with other cowboy accouterments, were also heavily influenced by the vaquero tradition that developed from a tradition that originated in Spain to the Americas, dating back to the early 16th century. The boots worn by Mexican vaqueros influenced cowboy boots, although the exact origin of the modern cowboy boot as we know it today is unclear. Americans most likely adopted cowboy boots from Northern Mexico, and later came the cowboy boots we know today. Military boots designed for cavalry riders also had an influence. Mexican vaqueros probably developed cowboy boots from the Spanish riding boots. The Mexican cowboy boots only came in three styles, rounded toe, pointed toe, and tribal toes, while the Americans offer many more styles. Also, the idea of using skins on the boots came from Northern Mexico, as well as the colors, which imitate the color of Mexican ranches.[citation needed]
During the cattle drive era of 1866–1884, the cowboy was apt to ruin a good pair of dress boots while working, so some owned more decorative dress boots to wear in town. The basic style elements permeated working boots as well. Fashion magazines from 1850 and 1860 show the cowboy boot with top stitching, geometric or other natural elements cutouts, and underslung heel.[citation needed]
The American-style boot was taken up by bootmakers in the cattle ranching areas of Texas, Oklahoma, and Kansas.[3] Two of the best-known early bootmakers of the era were Charles Hyer of Hyer Brothers Boots in Olathe, Kansas, and H. J. "Daddy Joe" Justin of Justin Boots in Spanish Fort, Texas and later Nocona, Texas. After Justin moved to Fort Worth, where shipping was easier, the Nocona brand of cowboy boots was made by Enid Justin Stelzer, eldest daughter of H. J. Justin, who stayed in Nocona with her husband, and the couple continued the family business.[4] After the couple divorced, the Olsen-Stelzer brand was started by Stelzer. The Texas Legislature designated the cowboy boot as the official "State Footwear of Texas" in 2007.[5]
T.C. McInerney of Abilene, Kansas, also made the American-style cowboy boot. A picture of this boot is listed in an ad in the Abilene Weekly Chronicle on December 7, 1871.[6]
Design
[edit]When mounting and, especially, dismounting, the slick, treadless leather sole of the boot allowed easy insertion and removal of the foot into the stirrup of the Western saddle. The original toe was rounded and slightly narrowed at the toe to make it easier to insert. While an extremely pointed toe is a modern stylization appearing in the 1940s, it adds no practical benefit and can be uncomfortable in a working boot.
While in the saddle, the tall heel minimized the risk of the foot sliding forward through the stirrup, which could be life-threatening if it happened and the rider was unseated. There was often a considerable risk that a cowboy would fall from a horse: he often had to ride young, unpredictable horses, and he had to do challenging ranch work in rugged terrain, which often meant that he could accidentally become unseated by a quick-moving horse. If a rider fell from a horse but had a boot get caught in the stirrup, there arose a significant risk that the horse could panic and run off, dragging the cowboy, thus causing severe injury and possible death.
The tall leather shaft of the boot helped hold the boot in place without lacing. The tall shaft, comfortably loose fit, and lack of lacing were all additional features that helped prevent a cowboy from being dragged since his body weight could pull his foot out of the boot if he fell off while the boot remained stuck in the stirrup. While mounted, the shaft also protected the lower leg and ankle from rubbing on the stirrup leathers, as well as fending off brush and thorns, particularly if also worn with chaps or chinks. While dismounted, the shaft helped protect the leg and foot from rocks, brush, thorns, and rattlesnakes. The high tops helped prevent the boot from filling with mud and water in wet weather or creek crossings.
The modern roper style boot with a low heel and shorter shaft emerged from the traditional design in response to the needs of modern rodeo, particularly calf roping, where the cowboy had to run to tie the calf as well as to ride. The lower shaft resulted in a less expensive boot but also allowed the boot to be more easily removed. A lace-up design for roper boots became popular, preventing the boot from falling off too easily and providing more ankle support when on foot. However, the lacer also has safety issues because it will not fall off if a rider is hung up in a stirrup, and lacking a smooth upper, the lacings may make it easier for the boot to become caught in the stirrup in the first place.
Decoration varied widely. Early boots were cowhide leather pieced together with single rows of topstitching. Still, as custom boots were made, cowboys asked for decorative stitching, cutouts in the high tops (early on, often Texas stars), and different materials. The interaction of wild west shows and, later, western movies influenced styles that working cowboys sometimes adopted. Modern cowboy boots are available in all colors. They can be made from almost every animal whose skin can be made into leather, including exotic materials such as alligator and ostrich.
Women's boots have become a significant part of the more recent history of cowboy boots.
Toe styles have varied through the years, but the basics remain the same. Popular toe styles include snip, wide snip, square, and round.
One accessory used with cowboy boots is spurs, which are sometimes attached to the heel of each boot to cue a horse while riding.
See also
[edit]- Cowboy hat
- Western wear
- Boot
- Acme Boots
- The Frye Company
- Double-H Boots
- Lucchese Boot Company
- Tony Lama Boots
References
[edit]- ^ Howard Zinn, A People's History of the United States, New York: Harper Collins, 2003.
- ^ Beard, Tyler (1999). Art of The Cowboy Boot. Layton, Utah: Gibbs Smith. p. 11. ISBN 0-87905-919-2.
- ^ Barbara Brackmann, Kansas Historical Society, "How Kansas gave Texas the Boot"
- ^ "Enid Justin: Lady Bootmaker". Archived from the original on 2010-03-05. Retrieved 2009-11-11.
- ^ Hatch, Rosie (Ed.) (2022). Texas Almanac 2022-2023. Austin, Texas: Texas State Historical Association. p. 21. ISBN 9781625110664.
- ^ "Newspapers.com". The Abilene Weekly Chronicle. Abilene, Kansas. December 7, 1871. p. 4.